Draught proofing pays for itself faster than almost any other energy fix
With the October price cap pushing bills to a three-year high, draught proofing is one of the few genuinely cheap ways to fight back before winter arrives. Most jobs cost under £30 and take an afternoon, not a tradesperson.
It won’t fix a badly insulated loft or an ancient boiler on its own. But heat that leaks out through gaps around doors, windows and floorboards is heat you’ve already paid for and never used, and draught proofing is the fastest way to stop giving it away for free.
This isn’t a grant scheme or a government programme. It’s the boring, unglamorous stuff that actually moves the needle on a bill, starting this weekend if you want it to.
What is draught proofing, and does it actually save money?
Draught proofing means sealing the gaps that let warm air out and cold air in, rather than adding insulation to walls or lofts. Think strips around door and window frames, brushes on letterboxes, and sealant around pipework where it passes through a wall.
The Energy Saving Trust has previously estimated that basic draught proofing can save a typical household somewhere in the region of £50 to £100 a year, depending on how draughty the home was to start with. It’s not a life-changing number on its own, but for an afternoon’s work and under £30 in materials, it’s one of the better returns going.
Where does most of the heat actually escape?
Doors and windows are the obvious ones, but they’re rarely the biggest culprit. Letterboxes, keyholes, loft hatches, and the gap under a front door often leak more heat than people expect, simply because nobody thinks to check them.
Old floorboards are a quieter problem. In a period property with suspended timber floors, gaps between boards can let a surprising amount of cold air through, especially on a windy night. A few pounds of sealant along the skirting board edge closes most of it.
What draught proofing can I do without spending much?
A weekend’s worth of draught proofing usually covers the same ground as a paid callout, for a fraction of the price:
- Self-adhesive foam or brush strips around door and window frames, a few pounds a roll from any hardware shop.
- A letterbox brush or flap, which alone can make a noticeable difference on an exposed front door.
- A chimney balloon or cap if you have an open fireplace that’s rarely used, since an open chimney is effectively a permanent hole in your heating.
- Sealant along skirting boards and around pipework, particularly in older homes with suspended timber floors.
None of this needs specialist tools. A tube of sealant, a tape measure and an hour on a Saturday covers most of a typical three-bedroom house.
Is draught proofing worth it if I’m renting?
Usually yes, as long as it’s removable. Self-adhesive strips, letterbox brushes and draught excluders don’t damage paintwork or fixtures, so most tenancy agreements have no issue with them.
Anything that involves drilling, permanent sealant on a shared structure, or changes to a fireplace is worth checking with your landlord first. The cheap, temporary fixes cover most of the saving anyway, so it rarely needs to go further than that.
Key takeaways
- Draught proofing typically costs under £30 and can save roughly £50 to £100 a year, depending on the home.
- Letterboxes, loft hatches and old floorboards leak more heat than most people expect.
- Self-adhesive strips and brushes need no specialist tools or tradesperson.
- Most draught proofing is renter-friendly if it’s removable rather than permanent.
- It works best alongside a properly insulated loft, not as a replacement for one.
Frequently asked questions about draught proofing
- How much does professional draught proofing cost?
- A professional draught-proofing service for a typical home tends to cost more than doing it yourself, though exact prices vary by tradesperson and how many rooms are covered. DIY kits usually cover the same jobs for a fraction of the price.
- Does draught proofing cause damp?
- Sealing draughts around doors and windows is generally safe, but a home still needs some ventilation, particularly in kitchens and bathrooms. Trickle vents and extractor fans should be left working even after draught proofing everything else.
- Is a chimney balloon safe to use?
- Yes, for a fireplace that isn’t in regular use, though it should always be removed before lighting a fire and never used on a flue that’s still actively venting an appliance.
- Can I get a grant for draught proofing?
- Some wider home insulation grant schemes include draught proofing as part of a bigger package of work, but the basic DIY version is cheap enough that most households simply do it themselves rather than apply.
- How long does draught proofing take to pay for itself?
- Based on typical costs and estimated savings, most basic draught proofing pays for itself within a single winter, sometimes sooner in a particularly draughty home.
Roo would tell you to do the letterbox first. It’s the cheapest fix on the list and usually the most noticeable.
Draught proofing won’t cancel out a price cap rise on its own, but paired with checking you’re on a decent tariff, it’s the closest thing to a free win before winter properly sets in.
